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The new optimistic fashion: luxury is ready for us to abandon sobriety

We spend much of last year with a view to absolute comfort, you expect to overcome the atypical situation in the best possible way: the shoes and the tracksuit became our allies and confidants to keep our feet on the ground.Now, however, we just want to fly.The escapist desire for recovery has starred in these days of parades in Paris and Milan, where luxury has said goodbye to the minimalism of the basics for brightness, the most irreverent sensuality and color.The resurrection of the micrompalda and the platform shoes are just some of the paradigm shift signs that we are about to experience.These are the new 'crazy years and we will live them to the fullest, destined to resurface from chaos.

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Fashion, like the phoenix

After the great war, in the second decade of the last century, women got rid of the crinonila in favor of fluid and glamor silhouettes, in the same way that they introduced to their lifestyle the traditionally masculine pants, a phenomenon that repliedIn the postwar period of the fifties when Christian Dior broke into the elegant New Look.The cyclical development of fashion dictates that it is condemned to repeat itself in tune with history.Is an overwhelming vitality born from all crises?From the outbreak of the bubble in 2008, the world had not faced together with a debacle of such dimensions, so it may need to remember how our style was marked less than 15 years ago to understand the latest proposals of designerscurrent.

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This is how we lived 12 years ago

With the few exceptions of John Galliano for Dior or Marc Jacobs in Louis Vuitton, the great fashion houses adjusted for the autumn/winter 2009 season to the austerity climate that merited that critical panorama. Both Prada and Miu Miu, both led by Miuccia Prada, surrendered to the wool and work monkey, while Dries Van Notten chose the eternal Camel coat as a symbol of moderation and Saint Laurent changed the sequins for the diplomatic line . For his part, Celine benefited after the signing of Phoebe Philo, whose Sport minimalism would consolidate the firm's success until his sudden departure in 2018. Lanvin, with the late shelter Elbaz at the head, and Balenciaga, in charge of Gesquière, divered In their respective files to replicate almost accurate looks with decades of history, all this in order to strengthen their brand identities in uncertain times, instead of inciting the purchase of new trends in full recession.

In this new decade, however, pragmatism and reflection were not only moved to baggy or simple silhouettes but were right in the target with a deep vision, of political and social motivation.The conversations planted on social networks and later in the streets would be the epicenter of the spring/summer 2021 collections, motivated by conscious consumption and cultural diversity.

La nueva moda optimista: el lujo vuelve dispuesto a que abandonemos la sobriedad

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Long life to the tracksuit?

With the crack of 2008, the economy recovered at a snail pace and gave rise to a gradual change of registration that allowed, around 2014, the rebirth of neon tonalities, high -impact stilettos and animal print in hyperbolic doses.For us, this past year, the agitated rhythm of life accelerated by the new technologies quickly took us to the boiled and we wanted to overcome, before expected, the effects that the pandemic had on our cabinets.With the harmful effects of the coronavirus still latent, consumers sought comfort and protection in the last months of 2020. The demand was still focused on casual or sports fashion with sales in crescendo of sweatshirts and feathers coats.Kim Kardashian and Kanye West were the marriage of the moment - it seems that we talked about a distant era - and their respective Empires of Comfy -Skims and Yeezy's clothing - accumulated millions of followers with their viral releases.This, however, would soon change.

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- Minifaldas, joyas y ropa de fiesta en el desfile con el que Dolce & Gabbana revisita los años 2000

'Yes' to everything: brightness, sensuality and color

El giro llegó con el nuevo año 2021. De acuerdo con el índice publicado por la plataforma de venda Lyst, las búsquedas de tacones altos y vestidos de noche se alzaron hasta un 163% y 222% con el paso de cada cuatrimestre tras el colapso de su consumo por el confinamiento. Poco a poco, regresaron a nuestras vidas los abrazos, las celebraciones, el color y los excesos, con la responsabilidad que esto aún demanda. Las marcas de lujo se adelantaron a este comportamiento, al traer de vuelta la logomanía, los maxicomplementos, el power dressing y la sensualidad de la minifalda, un fenómeno predecible si echamos la vista atrás. Versace, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli... la lista de firmas que se han volcado en favor de este propósito para la temporada Primavera/Verano 2022 es larga.

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- Louis Vuitton opens the doors to space with metallic embroidery and strident colors

Just as in the eighties women demanded and assumed their definitive entry to the labor field, -plasted in fashion with the reinvention of Giorgio Armani or Yves Saint Laurent, volumetric silhouettes, the ostentation of the logos and impact jewelry- Women of this generation will return to an alleged normality in pure maximalism.In May, Chanel's Crucero 2022 collection was distinguished as its more punk and casual delivery, while Louis Vuitton focused his own on rescuing the brocades and brightness with a luxurious futuristic approach.Even the accessories, bags and shoes loaded with color with strong artistic references, now point to the taking of the foreground in our styles under the new premise of never is 'too much'.

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Will we have forgotten the moderation and the importance of sustainability?

It is still about to be seen if this postpandemic empowerment is compatible with a form of responsible consumption, in which we know how to incorporate these special and unique garments, of artisanal clothing, to our cabinets to go from generation to generation.Even our daughters, nieces or future known are rescued by decades later, knowing the value it has to return to life through fashion.

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