Chava Flores sang: “In the afternoon they took out clean old tables to the streets, they sold us their custard and rice pudding in their little pots, rich capirotada, tejocotes with honey and at night an atole so champurrado that there is no more of it…🎶
Mexicans are confectioners. Let the first stone be cast by whoever refuses when offered a sweet. Since we were children we got used to their honeyed existence since they are the finishing touch of a meal. Chance? Not at all, sweets have existed since pre-Hispanic times —although back then they looked very different—, over time they have been enriched and changed until giving rise to the vast quantity that we see in the city's candy stores. Enter the marshmallow, today it's time to visit the old candy stores of the city.
The first honeyed
Although sugar cane did not exist in the territory that today comprises Mexico, the pre-Columbian peoples already knew the honeys of love. Turum psst. We refer to the fact that they already had sweet preparations thanks to bee honey mixed with fruits and seeds, which are still present in some towns. According to the chronicles of Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, at that time toasted cobs, dough tortillas, grains, pumpkin seeds and honey-coated pumpkin hulls were tasted in the tianguis.
When the Spaniards arrived they brought with them a shipment of white gold from India: sugar. Several researchers point out that India was the first country where the cane was processed to give rise to this important ingredient, in fact, the etymology of sugar comes from Sanskrit —ancient language spoken by the Brahmins— sakkara. Although we call it white gold, at that time it was more like piloncillo in grain, since there were no refining processes, but it served the same purpose.
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A good Mexican nougat
When the Spaniards arrived they were picky eaters, so they imported sweets from the 'mother country': nougat, fruit paste, collations and marzipan. Ole! These sweets were consumed only by the Spaniards and one or another Creole —remember that race-class classification of the castes?—. By the 17th century, sugar cane, coconut, strawberry, mango, lemon, banana, hazelnut, almond, among other ingredients brought during the conquest, were already growing in Mexico, so the first sweets began to be cooked of New Spain.
Pastry chefs, confectioners, bakers, nuns and the enslaved women who worked in the service of the convents made sweets with influence: Arab, Jewish, Moorish, Spanish and, of course, the flavors and knowledge of here. There were also ice creams made from egg yolk, milk and sugar known as mantecados, says José Luis Curiel in his book Virreyes y Virreinas Golosos de la Nueva España, only that they were reserved for a minority since the snow used came from the top of some mountains and preparing them was expensive. wow!
By the 19th century there was already a confectionery typical of this land. Sweet potato, alfeñiques, candies, puchas —don't be misconceived, it's like a custard—, picones, almond paste, real eggs, throats, meringues, macaroons, jamoncillos, crowbars... And the ones we're missing! The main cities of the country made the most succulent sweets to delight children and adults, although the division of classes continued, town criers appeared who sold some cheaper "second" ones on the street.
The rendez-vous of the confectionery
The only constant is change and not even sweets are spared from this. During the 19th century, the Mexican confectionery underwent another enrichment that led to new recipes and flavors: Frenchification! Well, it was more of a European mix since the English, Dutch and Germans also arrived in these lands, but there was a preference for French tendencies due to Don Porfirio Díaz.
Immigrants came looking for opportunities—cough, cough, no immigrant is illegal—and they set up commercial businesses. The researcher Adriana Guerrero mentions that among the specialized food stores “all kinds of chocolates, breads, puff pastries, ice cream, shortbread were sold. Joining some with small guilds confectioners, bakers and bizcocheros”. Even petit-fours, gateaux and macarons! Of course, this was still for the high socialite, since the people could only pay what the street vendors offered.
Thanks to the chronicler Antonio García Cubas, we know that there were candy vendors around the National Palace offering candies, praline almonds, baked gorditas, cacahuazintle corn donuts, acitrons, pumpkins and covered sweet potatoes. Meanwhile, those who could afford it visited the Dulcería Plaissant, on the second street of Plateros —now Madero—, in the Dulcería de Independencia on the ground floor of the Hotel Jardín and in the traditional Dulcería de Celaya, which we can still visit.
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Celaya candy store
The oldest candy store in CDMX and with a long tradition that has lasted for three centuries: Dulcería de Celaya. This gourmand place was founded in 1874 by the brothers Alfredo and Luis Guizar on Calle de Madero, formerly Plateros, however in 1904 and after an expansion of the roads, they moved to the current location.
Here came the cream and cream of the Porfirista bourgeoisie to taste a select variety of sweets brought from all over Mexico, especially from Puebla. Aha, as we told you, candy stores were places to go to strut and find maride. The demand was enormous, they even stocked for special parties, so they eventually chose to buy the recipes from different families and even convents and prepare them in the city.
From the moment you walk through the door it is like traveling back in time. The French-inspired decoration highlights even more each of the preparations carefully arranged on trays. There are crystallized fruits, knee and air fritters, cocadas, yemitas, picones, pralines and alfeñiques —figurines made with sugar—. Both foreigners and locals come here, all curious about this spectacular place that preserves the nostalgic Mexican candy tradition.
We recommend: Dulce de leche medallions! Our favorite is the envinado, although the burnt milk is also tasty. If you're not afraid of the sugar rush, try fruit pickles or crystallized pumpkin. The baked cocadas are one of the best sellers, as well as the fritters dipped in honey.
Where: Avenida 5 de Mayo #39, Historic Center
the coffee tree
On Calle de Jesús María stands out an enormous window full of a magical, sweet and colorful selection of sweets. Is this paradise? If you have ever dreamed of a world of candy, you have to come to El Cafeto, one of the oldest candy stores in CDMX where you can find all kinds of cookies, chocolates, gummies, fruit enchiladas, taffy, candies and dragees. This sweet shop was founded in 1938 by a Spaniard named Manuel Rodríguez, who sold the most innovative sweets of the time.
His fame grew thanks to the variety, quality and excellent prices they offered, so soon the business began to grow. They currently have three branches, although the main one is still the one in the center, which has three large stores dedicated to selling treats in the form of sweets.
The most striking thing about this candy store are its sideboards and arches that cover the place with seasonal products. Arturo Bazán, manager of El Cafeto who has worked here for around 30 years, tells us that initially they only had sweets, but this has changed.
wow! You will find the sweet you are looking for here, that is for sure, including the classic little tears and scented hearts, Arturo's favorites.
We recommend: Although there are chocolates, cookies and candies to choose from, we dare to say that the selection of gummies and enchiladas in bulk is the best since they are always fresh, very soft. The classic fruit and eggnog gummies or pineapple enchiladas will make you smile.
Where: Jesús María #80, Historic Center
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Marzipan Toledo
Another of the oldest candy stores in CDMX is, without a doubt, Mazapanes Toledo. Excuse me, chilangos, but the king of marzipans is at Mazapanes Toledo, a place with Spanish ancestry that prepares the most exquisite almond bites. This place opened its doors in 1939, when Luis García Galiano noticed the popularity of European sweets among the upper class, so he decided to start preparing nougat, shortbread and marzipan to satisfy the craving. Of course, the tradition of Toledo dictates that they must be prepared with almonds, not with peanuts like Mexican marzipan.
The place is simple, but the coolest thing is that they exhibit part of their history: the first almond mills, presses, old cookbooks, the first cash registers —from the year of the marble!— and even old marzipan boxes. "Everything is sold here, the cakes are taken more on special dates, but everything always moves," the vendor tells us. Nougats are among the favorites, but she tells us that people also come for a little marzipan to spice up their walk.
We recommend: We are going to err on the side of the obvious, but the marzipan here is the best. Try their shapes, like the hearts, which are partially covered in semisweet chocolate. The shortbread, almond swarms and nougat are also to steal sighs.
Where: September 16 #6 local 1, Historic Center
