The textile industry is one of the most polluting and, as revealed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 16,030 tons of clothing are thrown away each year, 811% more than in 1960. 1,760 tons were discarded. While it is true that much more is also recycled - 50 tons in 1960 compared to 2,450 tons in 2015 - the majority of garments end up in landfills or incinerated.
This growth is largely due to the arrival of a new production and consumption model, 'fast-fashion' (in Spanish, 'fast fashion'), which consists of creating large quantities of very cheap clothing. It is a very beneficial system for companies but it causes serious problems for the environment. To curb this impact, the UN has launched an initiative that involves companies and governments.
The current production model is by definition unsustainable
The main problem with the current production model is that its success is directly related to the fact that it is not sustainable, since this is the only way it can afford to produce garments at low cost, in large quantities and in record time, with collections that can reach be weekly .
According to official data from the United Nations (UN), the textile industry is the second most polluting in the world , behind oil and ahead of livestock. Fashion leaves a mark on the environment that extends through every phase of the production process.
To begin with, the factories as such, usually located in Southeast Asian countries, are very polluting, since the legislation in these areas is not as demanding as in Europe. The fashion industry is responsible for the emission of 10% of the total annual greenhouse gases , according to the UN. In addition, the production of clothing requires an immense expenditure of water: the body points to about 7,500 liters for each pair of jeans.
The dyes used also pose a major environmental problem, since their chemical components permanently contaminate the waters near the factories and destroy the fauna and flora of these ecosystems. This is the case in Bangladesh where the rivers adopt the fashionable color of the season.
But the industry is unsustainable beyond the production phase. In 2015, 16,030 tons of clothing were thrown away . These end up either in giant landfills or incinerated; a serious problem if one takes into account that the burning of garments emits 1.36 kilos of CO2 for every kilo of clothing incinerated.
What is the solution?
In order to really stop the terrible environmental impact of the textile industry, changes are needed on the part of companies, governments and public institutions and consumers. Recently, the UN has created the United Nations Alliance on Sustainable Fashion , an initiative with which it intends to pressure companies and governments so that they improve production conditions and redirect 'fast-fashion' towards a more environmentally friendly model. . Garment recycling is one of the main measures to alleviate the impact of textile waste and, according to the EPA, 2,450 tons of clothing were recycled in 2015.
Several brands have already taken action on their own. In the market there are already firms that opt for more ecological models, such as the company 'Reformation'.
However, the responsibility also falls on the buyers because, as 'Forbes' magazine points out , a change in consumption habits can influence a change in the way brands produce. The journalist Sanfod Stein explains that the new generations of young people, millennials and generation Z are more aware of environmental problems and are more willing to bet on sustainable fashion.The 'fast-fashion' leads the textile industry
The 'fast-fashion' model tends to sell a very attractive idea to consumers: that of ' good, pretty and cheap'. However, this form of production and consumption hides not so positive realities. It was born in the 60s, when young people, tired of traditional canons, began to buy cheaper clothes, made with new materials and designs, according to the specialized media 'Fashionista'. With World War II, the manufacture and purchase of clothing had already been standardized, and in this decade consumerism was established. It was then that suppliers, looking for a way to supply customer demand, found a solution in Southeast Asia. Producing in countries like Thailand or Bangladesh was notably cheaper, something that led brands to relocate and gave rise to 'fast-fashion'.
The main reason why these clothes are cheap is that they reduce all kinds of costs, starting with the materials, since they use fabrics that are worse but cheaper. In fact, companies benefit from this 'poor quality' because it acts like a vicious circle: using cheap materials makes the garments deteriorate sooner and, therefore, have to be bought again. According to the Iberian Textile Association , the average Spaniard buys 34 new garments each year .
But if they are of 'poor quality', why are they successful? Because its affordable price is accompanied by an attractive design. The 'fast-fashion' has brought with it the democratization of fashion and has allowed the middle and lower classes to access designs that previously only people with money had access to. In addition, giving up quality makes it possible to produce faster, which has favored 'micro-trends' , very specific trends that change frequently. It is easier to 'dress in fashion' by buying brands that produce according to this model than garments from traditional or local businesses. Something that is curious if one takes into account that the designs of the 'fast-fashion' stores are mostly copies of the patterns of luxury brands, as the Instagram account @Rosa_h_f shows .
