Homeluxury bag → New York, goodbye with Spanish air

New York, goodbye with Spanish air

How many hours of work requires a piece of a collection of Delpozo?"This, specifically, from the design to the final creation of the prototype, has cost us a month of work," says Josep Font, the creative director of the brand.He talks about a long vest with crochet, silks and raffia, one of the star garments of the parade that he presented yesterday at New York Fashion Week.Contemplating them closely, and seeing how the Spanish team of employers and seamstresses gives the last touch -ups in the previous hours, Font's obsession is reaffirmed by the artisanal invoice and the perfectionism of the finishes.It would be said that, despite not parading in Paris, not making unique pieces and being in a large brand (supported by the company Perfumes and Design), the Catalan has not stopped discharging.

The raffia and crochet live with the silks, becoming luxury fabrics.The reason, its evocation of the Spanish."In this collection there are two clear referents; one is the Gypsy Romancer of García Lorca, the other, the figure of Emilie Flöge, Muse of the painter Gustav Klimt."In short, strong women who challenged conventions.Flöge's influence is perceived in the volumes, hallmark of the house and one of the most difficult challenges for Font."Dozens of evidence and changes are needed so that a garment of these characteristics is well," explains the creative director.Lorca's echoes are perceived in the use of colors and materials;embroidery, crochet, green grass, raffia and moles symbolize the Spanish fields.The layers, brocades with gold and finished in fringes, condense the spirit of the proposal: the best of the Art Nouveau and the update of the Manila shawl.

But perhaps the real novelty of Delpozo is out of the parade.In fashion, the show works as a showcase to exhibit what a designer is able to do, but reality is imposed in the form of iconic and accessible products, that is, in the form of shoes, bags and perfumes.The first two are the news novelty this season."Laser die -cut bags remember the shape of a flower. We have tried to apply the concept of organic architecture in them," says Font.The other novelty, the shoes, take the form of Spanish spreads with metal appliques that tintine when walking.For the luxury perfume, "we will have to wait," says Font. But this entry into the commercial world of the exclusive accessory has already paid off: in the parade was Sarah Lerfel, from the Parisian store Colette or Linda Fargo, buyer of BergdorfGoodman.

Nueva York, adiós con aire español

Spain has also been Peter Copping's inspiration in his collection for Oscar de la Renta, although in this case, the allusions were much more literal.The carnation, the favorite flower of the rent, was stamped in Goyesca inspiration dresses.The incarnate red dyed the garments, emulating the bullfighting clothing.On the feet, again Spanish Esparto.Something that also inspired Altuzarra in his collection last Saturday;In their case, the heel and rope sole shoes reminded the dancers of the Basque Aurresku.

On the other hand, and after the Jamaican party that Tommy Hilfiger offered on Monday with his parade, it was the turn of another brand with more commercial vocation than artistic;Diesel Black Gold, the high -end line of the Italian group.Unlike Hilfiger (who dared, quite successfully, to redefine his classic poles to adapt them to the beach environment) he did not change the halls of identity of him: blacks, roquera aesthetics and leather prominence.It is clear that its identity is defined but, to what does a relevant hole occupy in a market that explores these elements from the most extreme luxury and the most popular fashion?

In any case, the most sophisticated designers of this week, Delpozo, Altuzarra and rent (obviously permission from Carolina Herrera) have reinterpreted Spanish folklore from completely different slopes.What if the national aesthetics became fashionable?

Adjusted afor

This season has been the first in which all the designers have left the Lincoln Center, until now the official headquarters of the New York Fashion Week.Most have opted for small rooms in the hudson river piers.They are closer to Meatpacking District, the fashion neighborhood par excellence, but its new scenarios have a very limited capacity."I prefer so, my clothes are to see them closely," says Josep Font, but the public does not think the same.For the first time, certain editors, bloggers and journalists have run out of entry for some shows.In addition, the traditional European press has been unseed by the increasingly thriving Chinese press, which now occupies the first rows.Normal.Asia is, for example, Delpozo's largest market.Not to mention experimental designers such as Hood By Air, who find their garments needed to make their garments profitable.

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